New Grass: The first few weeks after seeding are the most crucial. You need to keep the seed moist. Before it germinates, water the seeded areas for approximately 15-25 minutes, about 2-3 times per day. This will keep that top 1/2″-1″ of soil moist. After the seed germinates, you want to create a moisture-rich environment 2″-3″ below the soil so the roots will grow to areas with water present. The best way to achieve this is to water the seeded areas for approximately 45-60 minutes, about 2-3 times per week. In the event of drought conditions, increase the frequency to a daily waterings Once germination has started, you can apply a basic seed-starter fertilizer to help promote the growing turf. Try to refrain from watering beyond mid-afternoon to prevent potential fungal diseases.

These guidelines are provided no natural rainfall is present so be careful. Just because it rains doesn’t mean you’re getting enough water to your new lawn. Don’t stop watering when it looks like you’ve succeeded. Certain elements of perennial grass blends do not germinate for several weeks even with diligent watering, and water should continue for 5-6 weeks after germination. Your new lawn will not be mature for about a year. Even then, you can lose areas of mature turfgrass to drought stress. Follow the guidelines above and keep that lawn alive and healthy.

 

NOTE: There are many variables that can affect new grass growth beyond watering. Soil and air temperatures, fungal problems and the conditions of the soil prior to planting the new grass can all affect new lawn installation and lawn repairs as well as the time with which grass will fully germinate. Depending on the nature of the issue, additional steps may need to be taken, such as fertilization & weed control, core aeration, overseeding and soil testing may be recommended to ensure you new grass has the best conditions to grow in.

Sod: Water thoroughly (1” per day) for 14 days after installation. You may mow your lawn 1 week after installation if needed, being careful not to disturb the turf. Water as needed and fertilize 30 days after installation.

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Tree & Shrub Watering: Our goal is to slowly water the soil/mulch over the root ball so that the water does not run-off, and slowly percolates down into the soil, soaking that entire root zone. The easiest and cheapest way to water a tree is to lay a hose at the base of the trunk, a few inches away. Turn the hose on a slow trickle and watch it. If you are getting significant run-off, you need to turn the hose down. You will most likely need to have the hose run for an hour on 3 positions around the trunk. Radiate the hose around the base of your trees so that they are spiraling over the whole root ball.

The same principles that apply for a tree apply for shrubs, but on a lesser scale. Shrubs come in a variety of sizes of containers and root balls. Understand that your goal is to get that whole root ball moist.  Lay a hose at the base of the plant, a few inches away. Turn the hose on a slow trickle and watch it. If you are getting significant run-off, you need to turn the hose down. You will most likely need to have the hose run for 10-15 minutes per plant. You can also use soaker hoses. Radiate the hose around the base of your shrubs so that they are spiraling around the root ball. You will need to water 3-4 times a week depending upon the heat, lack of rain, and soil conditions. If conditions are more severe or favorable, you’ll need to adjust.

Perennials, Annuals & Groundcovers:  You can use a watering wand (similar to a shower head) on the end of your hose and water each plant individually for 15-20 seconds. If you have large areas of annuals or groundcover you may want to consider using an overhead sprinkler. Just be sure you aren’t watering within 3-4 hours from dusk, so the plant leaves don’t remain wet all night and promote fungal diseases.